Asked constantly, answered honestly.

The old rule of thumb says refinance when rates sit about 2% below your current rate — but a 1% spread can absolutely be worth it, depending on your loan size, how long you'll stay, and what the refinance costs. The honest answer is a breakeven calculation, not a slogan. Run yours in 30 seconds.

A point is 1% of the loan amount, paid up front. Discount points buy your rate down; origination points pay for the loan's creation. (For the trivia round: 100 basis points = 1 point.)

Only if you'll keep the loan long enough for the monthly savings to repay the upfront cost. Staying several years? Often yes. Moving or refinancing soon? Usually no. The points calculator does this math for you.

The annual percentage rate is the yearly cost of your mortgage with points and lending fees folded in — which is why it runs higher than the advertised rate. Its whole purpose is comparison shopping: two lenders' APRs are comparable when their rates alone are not.

A rate lock guarantees your quoted rate for a set window — typically 30 to 60 days, occasionally for a fee — so a market move between application and closing can't change your deal. We'll advise you on when to lock; responding quickly to document requests keeps a locked loan on schedule.

The short list, by category:

• Identity: photo ID, Social Security number
• Income: 30 days of pay stubs, two years of W-2s
• Self-employed: two years of tax returns
• Assets: two months of bank and investment statements
• Debts: current balances and payments
• Property (purchase): the signed contract; (refinance): your latest statement

Have these on hand and the application takes minutes — ask us if you're unsure about any of them.

Through your FICO score — a 350–850 number distilled from payment history, outstanding balances, length of credit history, new-credit inquiries, and your mix of account types. Higher scores unlock better pricing, but plenty of programs exist for imperfect credit; a low score starts a conversation, not a rejection.

Pay every bill on time, pay balances down (keeping utilization low), and avoid opening new debt — especially while a loan is in process. Check your reports free at annualcreditreport.com, and dispute errors with the bureaus directly: Equifax, Experian, and TransUnion.

Need more than tune-ups? Credit repair guidance is part of what we do. Ask us.

A state-licensed appraiser's estimate of a property's fair market value, required by nearly every loan program. It confirms the home is worth what you're borrowing against it — protection for the lender and, frankly, for you.

Private mortgage insurance protects the lender on conventional loans with less than 20% down. It adds a monthly cost until you reach 20% equity — avoidable with a bigger down payment, a piggyback structure, or programs that price risk differently. We'll show you all three paths.

A PMI workaround: an 80% first mortgage, a 10% second mortgage, and 10% down. An 80-15-5 variant exists with a smaller down payment at somewhat higher fees and rates. Whether the piggyback beats simply paying PMI is a math problem — bring it to us.

Ownership formally transfers from seller to buyer. Expect the closing agent, your lender's documents, and often attorneys and real estate agents around one table (or one e-signing session) — usually an hour or two. You'll verify the terms, sign before a notary, hand over a cashier's check, and — after a purchase closes — take the keys. The full process, step by step.